Last Friday, I poured wines from Pascal Janvier and was again reminded of the heights Chenin Blanc can ascend to when grown on the right soils with low yields and sensitive winemaking skills. Finesse, power, crisp, tart, mineral driven with subtle fruit reminiscent of ripe citrus interleaved with a touch of rich flaky pastry. What a show!
As I expected, the Jasnières was showing its stuff while the Silex was reserved, hoarding It’s richness and power for a year from now. The Coteaux du Loir 2009 Cuvée Rosier seems to have taken on some added nuances since I tried it last year. Jammy with cranberry, but with tartness and spring in the mouth giving an added dimension. Very pale pink ochre and transparent throughout. Perfect summer red but appropriate year ‘round! Jasnières 2010, $20.99; Cuvée Rosier 2009, $16.99; Cuvée du Silex 2010, $23.49.
Agricola San Felice Perolla Vermentino 2010 comes from estates located in the IGT Maremma on the Tuscan coast. Vines are grown in this temperate Mediterranean climate on clay and silt sands. The wine shows light golden in the glass with greenish tints. Notes of gooseberry dominate the nose and in the mouth it flaunts some very nice melon and gooseberry and subtle saltiness in the back. $10.99/750ml.
In 1961 France, Cabernet Sauvignon was crossed with Grenache to produce a successful new varietal, called Marselan. When I was in France in 2006, I was introduced to this varietal at Domaine de la Mordoree and brought some of it into our old store. A more elegant cross than Marechal Foch, I believe, and more successful at delivering clean, well -structured fruit. Ferrandière 2008 Marselan is black with narrow purple rims against the light. Very forward violet perfume. Brambly boysenberry with some lingering, dusty tannins to offset the slurpy fruit. Vines are grown on clay and limestone and the grapes are fermented in traditional vats and given eight months maturation in steel tanks. $9.99/750ml.
Establilshed at the beginning of the 20th century, the winery has been family owned ever since, slowly increasing their acreage over the years and supplanting the vines with apple orchards and rice. More at http://laferrandiere.com. Don’t miss the fine Viognier 2010 from this producer. Same price.
Domaine Chante Cigale (the singing cicada) was established in 1874 by Hyppolyte Jourdan. The name derives from the ubiquitous Provençal insect, which can be heard even at night if the temperature exceeds 77° F. Chante Cigale 2009 Cotes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes is sourced from Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah vines with an average age of 50years. 70% vat and 30% barrel aged. Dark opaque ochre red with vermillion rims. Smokey, with notes of cured black olive and rosemary. Mouth coating tannins packed with applewood smoked bacon, olive, rosemary and clay notes, a vibrant, tightly integrated core of fig and currant, and a long finish. Get it while you can: 17.99/750ml. http://www.chantecigale.fr.
In stock now:
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2006 $55.99/750ml. 90pts Robert Parker, 91pts Wine Spectator.
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Montosoli $108.99/750ml. 92pts Robert Parker, 93pts Wine Spectator.
Muga 2010 Rioja Rosato $13.49/750ml.
Molly Dooker 2010 Boxer Shiraz $24.99/750ml.
Mark Ryan Wild Eyed Red Mountain Syrah 2008 $43.99/750ml. 93pts Wine Spectator.
Belle Pente 2009 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir $23.49/750ml.
Chateau Gravas 2009 Sauternes $17.99/375ml.
Domaine Rochette 2010 Beaujolais-Villages $14.99/750ml.
Brick House Evelyn’s 2009 Pinot Noir $54.49/750ml.
Lezaun 2010 Navarra Rosado $8.49/750ml.
Januik 2008 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $29.99/750ml. 94pts Wine Spectator Insider
Tamarack Columbia Valley 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon $27.49/750ml. 93pts Wine Spectator Insider
Our tasting schedule this week:
• Friday, July 29, Full Sail Brewery, 5 p.m.
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