Last week, I was reminded once again that it is not the darkness or opaqueness of wine color that is the determining factor in making a judgment as to whether its full bodied with power, lithe bodied and elegant, or clunky and ponderous. Should a winemaker go to extraordinary lengths to ensure his Pinot noir is purple? Should Pinot noir even be purple? Or should there be minimal intervention, letting the chips fall where they may?
Barolo is a prime example. Last week, I talked with Mario Andrion, winemaker at Castello Verduno, in Piemonte. Extraordinary wines were sampled at that time: a clean, berry-inflected Dolcetto exhibiting all the freshness of grapes handled with minimal intervention by the winemaker. Fermentation in stainless steel, settling in the same, and bottling after a few months. Manual harvest. Seven days on the skins. Color is deep purple with wide transparent rims and a black core. Light, lively on the palate with zesty acidity and tang at the end. My point: Dark color in the glass, light and lively in the mouth.
In contrast, the Barolo Massara 2004: In the glass a transparent ruby red lightening to a narrow rim of sienna: on the nose an elegant perfume of white tea, rose, and cherry; in the mouth a complex interweaving of tea leaves, rose, cherry, tobacco shop with substantial tannins that creep up on the sides of the mouth and provide grip. Powerful acidity in the finish gives the wine length with what seems like unending flavor that lingers like a fine summer evening. Power, elegance, length, but very light color. To reiterate: There is no direct relationship between dark color and power, elegance, length, or depth, i.e. quality components in wine.
When looking at color, one needs instead to look for clarity, highlights, and tone gradation. Monotone color probably means the wine has been filtered and /or manipulated in the maceration or fermentation tank. High acid wines have higher concentrations of bright red anthocyans. Brown tones can mean desirable age or undesirable oxidation, again an unreliable sign of quality, depending on the type of wine. But above all, I think, color is interesting in itself and adds to the aesthetic dimension of wine appreciation.
For those of you who missed our tete-a-tete and impromptu tasting last Thursday with Mario Andrion, I have in stock from Castello Verduno the Langhe Nebbiolo 2008: Lively rose perfume, notes of baked pie crust, blueberry, dusty tannins with some earthiness and an elegant finish. $19.49/750ml.
Basedone 2007 Pelevarga: Sweet tobacco spice in the perfume, saddle leather, baked scone, berry notes interlaced with satiny tannins and a long finish. $24.99/750ml.
Barbaresco Faset 2001: Notes of sandalwood and sweet tobacco on the nose; baked scone, cherry, white tea in the mouth with gripping tannins and acidity. Long and elegant on the finish. $31.99/750ml.
New Zealand’s Wairau Valley is a renowned sub-appelation of Marlborough. I’ve been working on and off since about 1995 with the Goldwater estate wines and have always liked the Sauvignon Blanc. The 2008 Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc features ripe passion fruit and notes of guava on the nose, creamy in the mouth with tropical fruits and plenty of length on the finish. $15.59/750ml. through Feb.
Carlo and Julian in Carlton, Ore. just keeps on making delicious, affordable Northwest wines, primarily from Oregon but with occasional help from Walla Walla. Felix Madrid’s latest release, the Carlo and Julian NV Three Grapes red blend is from 2008 Carmenere grown in the Walla Walla AVA, and 2007 Tempranillo and Pinot noir from the Carlo and Julian estate vineyards. Notes of cedar on the nose; cedar, red currant, baked pie crust, vibrant acidity and a medium finish with some very pretty fruit. $11.99/750ml.
Alvarez y Diez Luna Blanca Toro Tinto 2008 is Spanish country wine at its best. Lively nose with red currant and saddle leather, medium body with some leathery tannins, notes of baked clay, blackberry and black pepper with weight, and some length on the end. $9.79/750ml.
Our tasting schedule this week
• Friday, Feb. 26, at 5 p.m. – Cascade Lakes Brewing Co.
• Saturday, Feb. 27, at 5 p.m. – Shadow Mtn. Winery
• Sunday, Feb. 28, at 5 p.m. – Ippolilto 1845 Res Dei Bianco and Abrazo 2008 Garnacha Carinena
Weekend coffee cuppings: Peet’s Usuri African Blend, Organic Gaia, and Garuda Blend.
Special Wine Tasting Event
Join us Wednesday, March 3 at 6:30 p.m. in our Community Room on the mezzanine where Earl Cramer Brown from C&G Wines and I will host a Chateauneuf-du-Pape preview of the 2008 vintage:
• Clos des Brusquieres
• Domaine de la Charbonnieres
• Chateau Fortia
• Domaine Olivier Hilliare
• Domane Moulin-Tacussel
• Domaine Tour Saint Michel
• La Vieux Donjon
Pre-orders are being taken at pre-arrival prices! All wines have been recently bottled at the wineries. Price is $30/seat. Food will be served. RSVP at 541-338-8455, 541-510-1616 or on the ‘net at jimc@marketofchoice.com.
Wine case discounts of 15% on unmixed cases of 12/750ml. and 10% on mixed cases. Call 541-338-8455, 541-510-1616, or on the ‘net at jimc@marketofchoice.com.