Wine at Willamette
Jim Colby, Willamette Wine Steward, has a simple life philosophy, “I surround myself with good wine and good people.” From customers to wine producers, Jim spends his days celebrating all that is wine. Readers can find his opinionated take on wine, beer and coffee here.
Chateauneuf du Pape
Clos du Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2012 is sourced from 31 hectares of red wines within the Chateuneuf AOC owned by the domaine. Hand-harvested in the vineyard followed by further sorting on a table. Fermentation for 3 weeks at controlled temperature, then stored for 12 months in foudres. No new oak is employed. “I want to taste the grapes and the soil, not the oak!” – Paul Avril. Grenache is the dominant varietal, with no more than 10% Syrah and 20% Mouvedre. 139/99/750ml. 97pts WS, 65-98pts WA.
Domaine Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf du Pape 2012: Formerly Domaine de la Relagnes. Henri Boiron sold Relagnes in 2006, the properties were split and 80% went to Chateau Calissane in Provence. Olivier bought the remaining 20%. The wines are cellared in Sorgues in a building shared by Olivier, Henri Bonneau and André Brunel. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mouvedre, 5% Cinsault. 93-95 pts WA. “A lineup of wines that just blew me away, these stunning efforts are made by Olivier Hillaire and should not be missed by any Southern Rhone lover. They’re massive, rich and textured wines, so not for the faint of heart, yet they offer thrilling drinking experiences. Count me a fan.” – Jeb Dunnuck. 54.99/750ml.
Domaine Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape 2012: One of my favorites. I’ve been working with this wine since around 2005. Named for the view of the old castle keep, opposite the family home. Situated on the Route de Courthézon, between Cabrieres and Mont Redon; 13 hectares of red vines and 1 hectare of white. Vinification is traditional with one cuvée of red and one of white. Rouge is 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mouvedre, and 5% Cinsault. Aging for 6 months in cement tanks and 12 months en foudres. 69.99/750ml. 91-94pts WA.
Cotes du Rhone Villages
Bertand Stehelin Gigondas: 70- to 90-year-old vines planted on NW-facing slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail at an altitude of between 120 and 330 meters. Terraced slopes of clay and limestone with alluvial scree. Cepage 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 5% Mouvedre. Elevage 24 months in oak. 34.99/750ml. 89-91pts WA.
Bertrand Stehelin Sablet: Same blend as above, but from younger vines around the village of Sablet. 40-60 year old Grenache and 25-30 year old Mouvedre and Syrah grown on sandy loam and clay soils. Destemming with vinification in stainless steel followed by 11 months in concrete vats. 24.99/750ml.
Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 H3: 92 pts Wine Spectator Insider for October 22. “Dark and spicy, billowing with plum, currant and white chocolate flavors, picking up pear and white tea notes as the finish lingers with refinement. The tannins are submerged. Drink now through 2018.” 11.99/750ml.
Tenuta del Priore Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2013: 100% Montepulciano. Soil type is silt and clay with calcare; SW exposure with an altitude of 150 meters, fermentation in 10,000 liter cement tanks; 100% malolactic; seven months in cement before racking and bottling. Notes of peppermint on the nose. Focused black cherry with underlying backed scone and some saltiness. This is a steal at 9.29/750ml!
Altadonna 2011 Pinot Nero: Vineyards located in North Central Italy, south of Milan. Vines are planted in clay and calcare at an altitude of 50-150 meters; manual harvest.; vinification in stainless at controlled temperatures with an additional 10 days of skin contact; full malo and 1 year of aging in steel tanks. Filtered and fined and given an additional month of cellar aging before bottling. Lively, bright cherry with a bit of clay on the underside; medium body. 12.29/750ml.
The Royal Old Vines Steen (Chenin Blanc) 2013: FromWestern Cape South Africa, this 100% Chenin Blanc comes from vines grown and maintained sustainably. Fermented in stainless steel. “One of the greatest buys I have tasted this year is this under $10, 100% Chenin Blanc from the Western Cape. A super flowery-scented nose includes notions of ripe honeydew melons and pears. This medium-weight, fresh, fruity, crisp, dry, textbook Chenin Blanc will provide immense pleasure over the next 12 months.” – Robert Parker. 90pts. 9.99/750ml.
Vintage Beaucastel Tasting
Taking reservations now for our first vertical tasting of Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape. We will taste vintages from 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, 2011 and 2012. This is not to be missed. Seating is limited. Cost is $40.00/seat, and you will have the opportunity to purchase these wines at a discount. The tasting will be held in our Community Room at the 29th & Willamette Street store Thursday, Dec. 4, from 5 pm – 7pm. payment required in advanceto hold a seat. R.S.V.P. at the Willamette store wine bar.
Southern Rhone Valley, Chateauneuf du Pape 2012
Part the First 2012:
“Surpassing 2011 and producing rich, fruit-loaded and moderately concentrated wines, 2012 was a sunny, dry vintage that should slot in beside, or slightly behind, 2009, in terms of quality. Coming closest, in my mind, to a lighter styled 2010, the wines possess pretty, dark fruit and mineral-styled aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and good, not great, concentration. The majority of these will be approachable on release, yet have graceful aging curves as well, with the top releases having 15-20 years of evolution. Alcohol levels are down, and the wines have good to moderate acidity with fine, polished tannins and overall approachable profiles. While a number of vignerons reported that the 2012s were hard to taste early on (and I found a number seemingly closed and aggressively tannic), they are increasingly liking how they're showing with additional time in tank and barrel. If the wines continue to gain mid-palate depth (and I think the best will), this could turn out to be a strong vintage. While Grenache fared well, it was a difficult vintage for Mourvèdre due to lack of water. While not a flat-out great vintage for reds, it is a great vintage for the whites. Showing beautiful purity, they're fresher than the 2011s, and while they lack the deep, concentrated richness of the top 2010s, they will deliver immense pleasure over the coming 2-3 years.” – Jeff Dunnuck in the Wine Advocate Oct 31, 2013
• Domaine La Consonnier Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2012 47.99/750ml. 90-92pts WA
• Le Cote de l’Ange 2012 Chateauneuf-du-Pape 49.99/750ml. 91pts WS.
• Domaine Lafond 2012 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Roc Epine 49.99/750ml. 91-94pts WA.
• Domaine Hillaire 2012 Chateauneuf-du-Pape 54.99/750ml. 93-95pts WA.
• Tour Saint-Michel La Tour du Lion 2012 Chateauneuf-du-Pape 64.99/750ml. 91-93pts.WA
• Chateau Sixtine 2012 Chateauneuf-du-Pape 69.99/750ml. 91pts WS, 91-94pts WAItaly:
• Marcarini Barolo Brunate 2010 57.29/750ml. 91pts WA.
• Fontodi Chianti Classico 2010 43.99/750ml. 92pts WA. Good to see this in the market again.California:
• Kistler Chardonnay 2011 McCrea Vineyard 77.99/750ml. 91pts WS, 93pts WA.
• Kistler Chardonnay 2011 Vine Hill 55.79/375ml. 91pts WS, 95pts WA.
These are not all on the shelf. I, or one of my trained staff members, will be happy to assist you in purchasing any of these wines; simply ask us about them.Miscellaneous:
• Domaine Graveirette Cotes du Rhone 2012 100% Grenache. Lovely concentrated fruit with length and breadth. 15.29/750ml.
• Chateau de Fontenille Entre-Deux-Mers 2013: 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris, 20% Muscadelle and 20% Semillon. Limpid, green-gold. Lively with citrus and creaminess in the mouth. 13.99/750ml.
• Planeta La Segreta Sicilia Blanco 2013. 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier, 10% Fiano. Vines are wholly owned by Planeta and planted on mixed yellow and dark clay with fine limestone soil in Menfi. Vinification and aging in stainless. 89pts WS. 9.99/750ml.
• O’Reilly’s Pinot Noir 2013 Oregon, from Owen Roe. Sourced from Anna’s Vyd, Chehalem Mtn AVA, Merrimam Vyd. Yamhill/Carlton, and Lenne Vyd. Yamhill/Carlton. Very pretty cherry/raspberry nose with abundant fruit in the mouth. Medium length. 16.99/750ml.
On Thurs. Sept. 18, Market of Choice will present the The Great Taste
, an annual event that benefits Eugene’s Relief Nursery. In addition to great food, there will be beverages, which means there will be wine!
Stewards from your favorite Market of Choice stores will be there, serving up some of their personal selections. As a precursor to this fine event, I will provide a sneak peek at the wines I have personally selected to pour. I hope you have an opportunity to come by and try them.2013 St. Innocent Pinot Blanc
A varietal that is a bit underappreciated, this wine will show its acidity and balance with any creamy or seafood dish. It has a sophistication that differentiates it from some of its competitors in the category of Pinot Blanc. $22.99/750ml.2010 Chateau La Haute Borie Monbazillac
This sweet Bordeaux white, delivers honey-like sweetness with a freshness of acidity that gives this wine balance. Though often drank as an aperitif, it will complement sharp cheddars and goudas with its soft touch. $22.99/750ml.2011 J. Scott Petite Sirah
Oregon wine producer J. Scott provides this petite syrah with a fruit-filled beginning, followed by a black peppery finish. This style is known for its big structure and abundance of tannins, and this wine doesn’t disappoint. The easy pairing with a wine such as this, is steak, however it will also pair well with heavily spiced pasta dishes. $24.49/750ml.2011 Chateau Vernous
This Cabernet Sauvignon heavy Bordeaux blend offers a bold wine that softens on the finish with its Merlot and Cabernet Franc accompaniments. The lush fruit and complex nose round out a strong showing of the Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine will go well with braised lamb and a spicy bean salad. $24.49/750ml.
Cantina Rizzi 2010 Barbaresco Pajore: Cantina Rizzi
is located in the heart of Barbaresco and includes 35 hectares, of which 15 are planted in Nebbiolo. Of these, the Rizzi estate owns 3 hectares in the heart of Pajore at an average elevation of 300m, facing south-southwest. Hand-harvested with fermentation in stainless steel for 12-18 months in 30hl oak barrels, after which concrete and steel for 12 months. 49.99/750ml. Azelia 2010 Barolo:
Founded in 1920 by Lorenzo Scavino, the winery
is now piloted by his grandson Lorenzo. With 16 hectares in Castiglione Falleto and Serralunga, it features 55- to 60-year-old Nebbiolo vines on southwest-facing slopes of calcareous, clay soils. After manual harvest, rotofermenters are employed with aging in large oak for 24 months. 37.49/750ml.
I know you German Riesling wine lovers are out there. Here are a couple of classic estate wines that you won’t want to miss!Reusher-Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen 2012 Kabinett:
From 6 hectares, including parcels in the Donherr (cathedral) section of the Goldtropfchen, of south-facing, steep slopes directly behind the Reusher-Haart home. Entirely on soft blue slate with many of the 35+year-old vines planted in the middle section of the amphitheater, thus benefitting from direct sunlight but cooled by winds from the Mosel. Sustainable farming, wide row spacing, hand-harvested in several passes, ambient yeasts and fermentation in stainless all contribute to the charming interplay of fruit and succulent minerality of their wines. 19.99/750ml.Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten 2012 Auslese:
Taken from just below the sundial in the Wurzgarten, planted entirely on red slate. Here’s Terry Theise being hyperbolic: “The clearest imaginable look into pure Mosel. Vivid, toe-curling clarity of fruit and terroir make this my most beloved Mosel agency. These are just some of the keenest, spiciest, most helplessly beautiful wines you can ever drink. The iciest blade of electric, splashing acidity supports a fruit so clear, so sharply rendered that the entire experience is so vivid it makes your toenails laugh!” Find out for yourself! 24.99/750ml.
Arguably one of the greatest vineyards for Riesling in the world, Urzinger Wurzgarten is located on southerly facing slopes rising precipitously above the town of Urzig. The soil consists chiefly of weathered slate and red sandstone and produces uniquely aromatic and honeyed wines of great intensity and graceful minerality. Johann Wilhelm Schild hand selects grapes from 50 to 70 year old Riesling vines. The 2011 Urziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett
is packed with bright acidity, subtle slate and wet earth, with notes of honey and tropical fruit and a luscious finish that goes on and on. 16.99/750ml
Almost equally famous, the Graacher Himmelreich vineyard, just before the bend in the Mosel south of Urzig and north of Bernkastel, is planted on legendary blue slate soils on southerly facing vertiginous slopes. Josef Bernard-Kieren is one of the most prestigious winemakers on the Mosel, and I’m excited to be introducing the wines to Eugene. The 2012 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett
shows gold in the glass with green flashing highlights. Flowery bouquet fills the nostrils with exciting spring-like accents, with lovely layered fruit of orange, lemon and strawberry underlain with chalky minerality and a lively sprightliness. Finishes freshly long. 18.99/750ml.
Finally, from Selbach-Oster, the 2011 Riesling Spatlese
: Grapes are grown on the Zeltinger slopes between the Himmelreich and Sonnenuhr Vineyards. Again, the vines are planted on southerly facing slopes composed of blue Devonian slate. Grapes are hand-harvested. Beautiful, full bouquet with notes of ginger. Full-bodied, tropical, wild honey and lively acidity nicely balanced with wet stone and great length. The grapes were harvested at 88 degrees Oeshule, which means it is legally an Auslese, but Selbach decided to label it as Spatlese. 28.49/750ml.
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