My evaluation of the 2009 Pinot Noir vintage continues with a stop at Ayres Vineyards, owned by winemaker Brad McLeroy. Brad is a firm believer in letting the grapes and resulting wines express themselves through terroir (Ribbon Ridge AVA), with as little manipulation as possible. He uses no pesticides and as little organic herbicides as possible. “This is our backyard, and I like it to be safe for our kids, dogs, and ourselves to work and play in.” Refreshing.

I’ve been working with Brad’s wines since the first vintage, and they have steadily grown in stature. The 2009 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir has a tiny dark center with wide, transparent ruby rims and great clarity. Perfume is lively raspberry with brambly components. In the mouth, it is vivacious with raspberry, notes of cranberry, with graham cracker tannins. Nice medium length on the end.

2009 Lewis Rogers Pinot Noir shows a wider, dark middle in the glass, with purple rims. Perfume has attractive rose notes that open after the wine is swirled. The mouth has interlocking layers of raspberry jam, cinnamon, cardamom and underlying stoniness. Medium finish with good fruit.

2009 Pioneer Pinot Noir. A transparent, dark middle with medium-wide purple rims. Tightly wound brambly raspberry wraps itself around dusty graham cracker tannins and sprightly acidity. Needs some time in the glass to really express its depth and power.

Release date for these wines will be September. The 2008s are practically sold out, but still too be had is the lovely Ayres Willamette Valley Pinot Noir at $19.49/750ml.

Too long gone but always happy to see it return, Hugl Grüner Veltliner 2009, a delicate, lemon-perfumed white wine from north-east Austria in Ketselsdorf-Poysdorf. Light gold with green in the glass, this wine is layered with lemon meringue, honey notes and underlying stoniness to offset it and provide a tart, dry finish. $11.99/1 lt.

Good, affordable Bordeaux is always a pleasure to find, and even more fun is rosé from this area. I visited Chateau Suau in 2006, so it was a pleasure to see their blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc available again. Chateau Suau Bordeaux Rosè 2009 is light salmon pink in the glass, with a luscious perfume of strawberry and nectarine fragrances. Peppery tannins in the mouth are balanced by the bright berry and red fruit and a persistent finish. $13.99/750ml.

One of our customers clued us into a great buy in Italian red. The Cabanon Augurio Rosso 2008 is from the province of Pavia, and is a blend of Bonarda, Barbera, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet, and Merlot. Black in the middle, with vermillion edges. Marionberry and currants on the nose with lots of jammy fruit in the mouth, silky tannins and a jammy finish. $12.99/750ml.

Ciacci Piccolomini is arguably one of the greatest estates in Montalcino. Their Brunello’s are long lived, cellar worthy and sought after. So, I was excited to taste a sample of the Ciacci Piccolomini Toscana Rosso 2007. Transparent dark red middle with wide vermillion rims; blueberry and black tea notes in the perfume; round, mouthcoating fruit, underlying tar notes with crunchy tannins, sweet spice, and persistence on the end. A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah. $12.99/750ml.

Our Wine and Beer tasting schedule this week:

• Friday, Aug. 20 – Firestone Walker Brewery 3-5 p.m. & Shadow Mtn. Vineyards at 5 p.m.

• Saturday, Aug. 21, 2-4 p.m. – 21^st Amendment Brewery

• Sunday, Aug. 22, 5-7 p.m. – Rubus Russian River Chardonnay 2009